Old Town

Every time I  return home to Edinburgh I am always drawn to the Old Town, its gothic buildings and narrow streets. At the heart of it lies the Royal Mile, known to locals as the High Street, a Scottish mile in length it connects the historic fortress of Edinburgh Castle to the The Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s residence when she visits Edinburgh. The High Street is lined with cafes, pubs and gift shops but what makes it so unique is the labyrinth of closes and wynds that can be found off the street. From Fishers to Fleshmarket the closes allowed residents to go about their daily lives as the passages were obscured by the taller buildings above which allowed protection from the English. As the population grew these closes would have been full of disease as shouts of ‘Gardy Loo’ would echo out against the buildings before human waste was tossed out onto the street below.

Waverley Station, for most travellers, their first impressions of Edinburgh are on arrival at Waverley Station. Named after the Scottish Novelist Sir Walter Scott, the elevated glass canopy allows the station to be flooded with light, no matter how grey the weather outside. I like to take the lift up to the top of the station where you can get a view over the expansive roof up to the North Bridge and the Old Town.

Cockburn Street pronouced ‘Coburn’ connects the Station to the High Street, you can opt for a leisurely stroll browsing shops along the way or take the stairs of Advocates or Warriston’s Close, the climb is worth the view! Before you start your explorations into the Old Town allow for a pitstop at The Milkman. This independent coffee shop with its ghost sign frontage, exposed stone interior, speciality coffee and small range of cakes is a favourite among tourist and locals, they have even opened at second branch at no 52 Cockburn Street.

Sitting high on an extinct volcanic rock the magnificent silhouette of Edinburgh Castle dominates the skyline from wherever you are in the city. Venture behind the castle walls to learn about its role in history, but I also like to wander the esplanade in front of the castle; during the summer it is site of The Royal Military Tattoo and concerts but the rest of the year it is open to the public. Looking South you can see the Pentland Hills or North over the Firth of Forth up to the Lomond Hills.

H&W Tip: Camera Obscura is the perfect rainy day afternoon activity for adults and children to explore the world of illusions but the real highlight for me is the views you get over Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town that can be seen from the top floor.

The sweeping curve of cobbled Victoria Street with its stone buildings and charming colourful shop fronts is said to be the inspiration Diagon Alley.

What makes this street so special is the variety of independent shops, a few favourites include:

Red Door Gallery - for their great selection of prints

I J Mellis - to sample Scottish cheeses

Walker Slater - for their stylish clothes

Oink - for the best pulled pork sandwich in town

John Kay - browse their Scottish books and gifts

Museum Context - for all things Harry Potter related

Edinburgh Natural Skincare - botanical skincare products

At the end of Victoria Street, with the Castle looming overhead is the Grassmarket. Once the site of public hangings, the ominously named The Last Drop pub, where prisoners were allowed their last drink before they faced the gallows is a grissly reminder of this. The area has long been transformed and can be found throbbing with visitors enjoying the pubs and restaurants.

No matter the weather in Edinburgh, you will always find a queue outside Mary’s Milk Bar. Founded by Gelato graduate Mary, they sell artisan chocolate and the best gelato in the City. Handmade every morning, flavours change daily- from salted caramel to strawberry balsamic, there is something for everyone. If you want to enjoy your ice cream with a view, scale the steps of The Vennel for one of my favourite views of the Castle.

W.A. Armstrongs is a vintage emporium which has several locations over Edinburgh, my favourite of which is located in the Grassmarket, they sell everything from kilts and sporrans, to cocktail dresses and fur jackets and their enviable rainbow collection of cashmere jumpers - well worth a rummage.

Located in the West Port, Armchair Books is a treasure trove of second hand and ancient books, also look out for Edinburgh Books, another emporium of second hand books. Afterwards retreat to the cosy atmosphere of Lovecrumbs for a hot drink and choose a sweet treat from their enviable selection of cakes.

As a child I remember many happy visits to the National Museums of Scotland on Chambers Street; mesmerised by the glass cases full of animals and my favourite - the skeleton of the blue whale suspended from the ceiling. Since they restored this Victorian building to its former glory in 2016, the exhibits have grown and it is the ideal rainy day activity for children and adults alike. Although the highlight of this museum for me is the light flooded central atrium and the roof terrace on the 7th floor which provides magnificent views over Edinburgh.

Not far from the museum you find Thomas J Wallis Coffee (once an old opticians ) for coffee and Ting Thai Caravan, which serves up South East Asian street food at low prices or for a seat and slice of pizza, try Civerinos.

Behind theses Old Town facades, Edinburgh hides a grisly past full of murder, grave robbing, executions and witch trials and is widely reported to be one of the most haunted cities in the UK. To hear more about the dark tales this city hides book yourself onto a ghost tour. Step back in time in Mary King’s Close, which is now hidden beneath the Council Chambers, where plague victims barricaded themselves in to await their fate, or venture into The Underground Vaults in the North Bridge where those who were believed to be witches were tortured. Alternatively you can hop on The Ghost Bus and tour Edinburgh’s most ghostly landmarks.

H&W Tip: If ghost tours are not your cup of tea, why not explore the graveyard of Greyfriars Kirkyard? It it said that J.K.Rowling sought much inspiration for the names of many Harry Potter characters from here, including one Thomas Riddell.

New Town

By the 18th century the Old Town had 50,000 residents who were crammed into tenements, some 14 stories high to accommodate the people and their livestock who lived side by side. As Daniel Defoe wrote after a visit to Edinburgh “I believe that in no city in the world so many people have so little room”. Poor sanitation and overcrowding in the city saw Edinburgh earn the nickname of ‘Auld Reekie’; shouts of ‘gardyloo’ would echo off the narrows wynds and closes as warning before chamber pots where emptied from the windows above out onto the streets below, where it would drain into Nor Loch. 

Following the collapse of a six storey tenement killing one of the cities most eminent families, The Town Council decided that Edinburgh should expand outwith the medieval city walls and launched an architectural competition to design a New Town for Edinburgh. The competition was won by unqualified architect James Craig, who proposed draining the Nor Loch and the building of the North Bridge which would allow access from the Old Town into the new grid-like system of streets. To achieve the winning design more accomplished architects were involved in the construction. Sadly James Craig died of consumption and his plans of the New Town were sold off to pay his debts.

But to this day his legacy remains; admire the castle from Princes Street Gardens, formerly the Nor Loch; stroll along the elegant crescents, marvel at the coastal vistas and wander the cobbled mews, these features paired with the classic Georgian architecture earned Edinburgh its new title of ‘Athens of the North.’

The main thoroughfare of the New Town is Princes Street running from the East End where you can find the new St James Shopping Quarter and the impressive Balmoral Hotel to the red bricked Waldorf Astoria Hotel in the West End. On the southern slope below Princes Street you have the lush gardens complete with Floral Clock - created during the summer every year from 1903 and the newly renovated Ross Fountain with Edinburgh Castle towering overhead. On the other side you have an array of high street shops and beyond this fashionable George Street which is lined with boutiques, restaurants and bars. Also be sure to check out secluded Thistle Street and Rose Street for independent eateries.

H&W Tip: you may check your watch twice when you spot the clock of the Balmoral Hotel don’t be alarmed it runs slightly fast to ensure travellers make their train on time. The Waldorf Astoria Hotel previously known as The Caledonian was a former Victorian railway station

Situated in Princes Street Gardens is the Scott Monument, the largest monument built in Europe to commemorate a writer. Having battled polio as a child, Sir Walter Scott worked as an advocate before later becoming famous for his historical novels, most well-known for his ‘Waverley’ novels, from which the railway station in Edinburgh takes its name. He is also credited for the revival of tartan, which had fallen out of favour after the Highland clearances. Fondly known as the Gothic Rocket, a climb up to the top is well worth the effort!

On Queen Street you find the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, neo-gothic in style and constructed in red sandstone makes it one of the most unique buildings in the city. Inside the walls are adorned with heroes and heroines who have played an important part in Scotland’s history; look up at its celestial ceiling which depicts the night sky and zodiac. Also be sure to visit the Scottish National Gallery at the Mound whose collection comprises of Gainsborough, Turner, Raeburn and Vermeer. For contemporary tastes, head to the West End for the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art which is situated in grounds to the Water of Leith.

Somewhat off the beaten track of the well-traversed Edinburgh streets you will find lively Broughton Street. Situated at the east end of Princes Street it has always had an artistic feel and this bustling neighbourhood is full of gems to discover. Here you can find The Olive Branch an independent eatery which serves food from morning to night; Soderberg for Scandinavian sandwiches and pastries including their famous cinnamon buns (wherever you are in Edinburgh you are never far from a branch - you can see all the locations in the map below); Life Story for Scandinavian inspired homeware and accessories; Curiouser and Curiouser for gifts and prints; Narcissus Flower Shop for blooms and seasonal bulbs to brighten your day and Rosevear Tea, specialists in loose leaf tea.

Clamber up Calton Hill for 360 degree views over Edinburgh, which stretch out over the Old Town, over the East of Edinburgh and down to Leith. For a bird’s eye view out to sea climb Nelson’s Monument, built to depict an upturned telescope and the newly refurbished City Observatory is now open to the public. Also be sure to try The Lookout, open for brunch, lunch and dinner, this restaurant has one of the best views in Edinburgh.

Dean Village

A short walk from the hustle and bustle of Princes Street is Dean Village, a tranquil spot by the Water of Leith. Once the location for many active watermills, the old buildings still remain to this day; the picturesque red brick buildings seen in the photos below is Well Court and which was commissioned for local workers drawn to working in the mills. This green oasis provides a welcome escape for visitors and locals alike, continue along the path as the water flows east, eventually meandering past St Bernards Well and you will reach the elegant suburb of Stockbridge.

Stockbridge

To the north of the city centre, lies the suburb of Stockbridge with its rows of elegant New Town Houses, hidden mews, independent shops and many a great cafe is perhaps one of my favourite areas to while away an afternoon. This area continues to have a bohemian vibe and its charity shops attract many a bargain hunter. The main thoroughfare, Raeburn Place is lined with cafes and shops: my top picks include Soderberg - every locals favourite for cinnamon buns, Cowan and Sons for sweets and savoury treats; The Pastry Section, a new discovery for me, has the best selection of bakery in town, be sure to try their honeymoon slice; Dahlia, for plants and ceramics; Golden Hare Books selling fine books for adults and children and new addition Rare Birds Book Shop whose mission it is to sell and celebrate books by female authors. On Howe Street, drop in at Scottish homewares and lifestyle brand Homer for wares suitable for every room in your home.

The most photographed street in Edinburgh, Circus Lane can be found here, beautiful at any time of year and you can get your Instagram snap! The colonies of Stockbridge are well worth a visit and there are many lovely mews and streets in this area to discover.

A short walk through the colonies of Stockbridge, you will find the Royal Botanic Gardens, which provides an escape whatever the season. Make sure you spare an hour or two to explore the Glasshouses, 10 in total, The Victorian Temperate Palm House is one the tallest ever built and one of my favourite places to retreat to on a wintry day.

To help with your explorations, above you will find all my favourites in one place! Click the star to save it to your Google Maps. Please however check the locations before you visit as sadly as some have closed since the Covid Pandemic and at the time of publishing this guide have not yet reopened.

I hope you have enjoyed this guide to the wonderful city of Edinburgh, if you are looking for some more inspiration be sure to check out these other Instagrammers who capture this city so well…

@exploringedinburgh

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All rights reserved . Copyright Frances Hardie 2022.