I moved to Oxford in 2014 and for two years I was lucky enough to call the city of 'Dreaming Spires' home. I loved exploring the city and surrounding area on my days off whether by bike, foot or train. So I have decided to put together a guide to my favourite places to discover in Oxford.

Radcliffe Square

Where better to begin than Radcliffe Square, the heart of Oxford and its University? This central square in Oxford is the place that students and tourists alike always congregate in and is one of my favourite places to photograph. In this square you will find one of the most photographed buildings in this city, surrounded by some of Oxford's most recognisable landmarks. As you enter your eye is drawn to the circular building, known as The Radcliffe Camera. Opened in 1749, as the Radcliffe Library, funded by Dr John Radcliffe an eminent academic, physician and politician, it was independent of the Bodleian Libraries. This circular domed building was renamed the Radcliffe Camera - camera being Latin for room - when it was taken over by the libraries and is now a reading room. The Bodleian Libraries are one of the oldest libraries in Europe and houses their vast collection of 12 million items above and below ground. Within the libraries is The Divinity School, its beautiful fan vaulted ceiling is not to be missed and it was also used as the location for the Infirmary in the Harry Potter films.

The Bridge of Sighs may bear a resemblance to that of Venice's famous bridge, but Hertford Bridge to give it its rightful name, is a skyway that joins two parts of the College; if you pause long enough you will be able to see members crossing through the panes. 

Opposite you will find University Church of St Mary the Virgin and it was from here that the University of Oxford grew. You can now scale the 124 steps up the clock tower to enjoy a bird's eye view of Oxford and the surrounding countryside. Back at ground level, head to The Vaults and Garden,known for their organic and locally grown menu caters for lunches or afternoon tea. Their cosy dining area is the perfect place to shelter on a cold winter’s day or in the summer to sit outside in the sunshine in the church’s garden, admiring the Radcliffe Camera. The Sheldonian Theatre was designed by Sir Christopher Wren and is used for University ceremonies, concerts and events throughout the year. This Roman-inspired semi-circular building is surrounded by twelve busts portraying Roman emperors and the cupola at the centre of the roof provides fine views of the skyline (accessible for a charge). 

Walk up Brasenose Lane to Turl Street, home to three colleges, a handful of shops and two great cafes. For coffee The Missing Bean is favoured by students and locals alike, their window-side seat is a favourite people-watching spot, go early to be sure of a table. For food, Turl Street Kitchen is open early until late serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Expect communal tables, local food and an excellent wine list make for a friendly atmosphere.

The High Street

As depicted by Turner in 1810, Oxford's High Street has not changed much bar the addition of bikes, boutiques and road signs. Scattered amongst the colleges and university buildings you will find independent shops selling souvenirs and gifts. With Carfax Tower at one end and Magdalen Bridge at the other it is the perfect place to wander for an afternoon. 

For places to eat, The Grand Cafe lies behind a blue and gold facade: it is believed to stand on the site of the oldest coffee house in England established in 1650. Customers can enjoy the mirrored interiors whilst having breakfast, lunch or something more decadent in the form of afternoon tea, not forgetting their cocktails! Quod Brasserie and Bar provides a place to dine on seasonal menus from morning till night. 

Accessible from the High Street, The Covered Market began trading in 1774 and is a labyrinth of sights, smells and sounds. Today you can find everything from coffee to cookies and tea to trinkets with shops including butchers, cobblers, cheesemongers, greengrocers and fishmongers. Look out for The Cake Shop which has an edible version of Christchurch in its window. Tucked behind on Market Street make sure you enter Objects of Use whose beautiful section of household goods are carefully selected from all over the globe.

Merton Street runs parallel to the High Street and can be accessed from various alleyways and lanes, where you can slip out of sight into this cobbled thoroughfare. Houses of every hue, quaint doorways and of course bikes can be found along the way, which I'm sure many a photographer will spot.

After a wander along Merton Street, turn right onto the High Street and head towards Magdalen Bridge. On the banks of the River Cherwell lies the University of Oxford Botanic Gardens. Founded in 1621, it is the oldest of its kind in the UK. The walled garden, come rain or shine, is a green oasis and within its many glasshouses ferns, lilies, orchids and palms grow in their temperate climates.

Jericho

The suburb of Jericho lies to the north of Oxford and this laid-back neighbourhood is a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the town centre. Amble down Little Clarendon Street, past the independent boutiques and eateries and onto Walton Street. Here you find shops such as Illyria Pottery, whose window displays are always a delight and the pottery wall ensures you covet every one of her beautiful handmade pieces, from baubles to bowls. Around the corner is Observatory Street, a charming Victorian Terrace where each house is painted a different colour, one even with a bike to match! Cafes and pubs aplenty line Walton Street, the main thoroughfare of Jericho; a few favourites are The Jericho Cafe for nibbles and salads, Branca for their stone baked pizzas and selection of pastas, The Old Bookbinders for French cooking in an English pub, and The Rickety Press which serves good old pub grub in a cosy setting. Fancy a slice of cake? Barefoot Cakes are made locally and have an impressive array of choice.

Next, check out The Phoenix Picturehouse showing a mixture of mainstream, foreign and independent films. In the evening, The Oxford Wine Bar has an impressive selection of wines. Cocktail o’clock? Be sure to stop by the elegant Duke of Cambridge on Little Clarendon Street, or the cocktail list at Raoul’s is bound to keep you occupied for the evening. Not to be missed is Freud’s, a bar in a converted church, where you can admire the stained glass windows while you sip!

For some fresh air, venture out to Port Meadow, an expanse of land used by horses and cattle and the perfect place to escape for a leisurely walk along the River Thames. This ancient land runs from Jericho to Wolvercote and in the summer people laze in the shade of the trees, dipping their fingers into picnics and their toes into the water. In the winter, while dog walkers well-wrapped up against the cold, the smell of drifting wood smoke from the houses and distance sounds of trains fill the meadow. Follow the well-trodden path through the trees and you will come across The Perch, one of the oldest pubs in Oxford, complete with garden and thatched cottage or if you prefer, continue past the lock and ruined abbey to The Trout, a 17th century pub on the banks of the river. 

For something a little closer find North Parade, with pubs, restaurants and galleries lining this hidden street, highlights include Brew for artisan coffee and 2 North Parade Shop for local fruit, vegetables, meat and cheese. Round the corner is Gee's Restaurant, where you can relax in a Victorian Glasshouse surrounded by potted trees, elegant lighting and good food.

Holywell Street

One of Oxford’s prettiest streets and a short walk from Radcliffe Square is Holywell Street. At the top of the street is the pink-fronted facade of The Kings Arms which I recently discovered and its intricate network of rooms is the perfect place for a quiet drink. Holywell Street is beautifully looked after and on a recent return visit they were using it to film Endeavour - it is famous for its colourful facades which always brighten my mood however grey it is. A favourite facade of mine is the 16th century Holywell Bed and Breakfast with its seasonal flowers and elegant bicycle outside, and a 17th century courtyard.

A short walk up from Holywell Street is the Oxford Natural History Museum, housed in a Neo-Gothic inspired building. The intricately detailed cast-iron pillars support the glass roof allowing light to flood the atrium and cast shadows on its many skeletal inhabitants below. Another architectural highlight are the stone columns in the upper gallery which reflect the variety of raw material found across the quarries of Britain. As well as the Skeleton Parade, make sure you also pay a visit to the live beehive, the dinosaurs discovered in Oxfordshire and its very own Dodo.

In contrast, through the back of the museum you will find the Pitt Rivers Museum. It was established in 1884 on the condition that Oxford University build a museum to house the collection belonging to General Augustus Pitt-Rivers. The glass cabinets and floor-to-ceiling drawers are stuffed full of some its 500,000 ethnological and archaeological curiosities.

University of Oxford

It was not until I started to explore the colleges that make up the University of Oxford that I appreciated how big the city centre was. The university is the oldest in the English-speaking world and it is thought that teaching existed in some form as far back as 1096. There are now 38 colleges and 6 permanent private halls which are all autonomous in their own right and educate some 24,000 students.

Many of these colleges can be visited for a small fee and provide a peaceful retreat from the busy streets: behind their walls most colleges allow entry into their Quadrangle, Dining Hall, Chapel, Gardens and surrounding grounds. Unfortunately not all colleges allow visitors, so why not visit for the Sunday Evensong service which is open to all and enjoy the atmosphere and the voices of the college choir fill their Chapels. Taking place annually in September, Oxford Open Doors is also a great time to enter the walls of some of the most exclusive colleges. Below are my favourites Colleges which I found were welcoming to visitors and I would regularly return to visit whatever the season.

Founded by Henry VIII in 1546 Christchurch College is perhaps the most well known of all the colleges in Oxford; located on the edge of Christchurch Meadows, you can find cows grazing and punters leisurely cruising along the River Cherwell. The Oxford skyline would not be thesame without Tom Tower, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and Oxford’ Cathedral Spire. Over the years, thirteen British Prime Ministers, the poet W.H. Auden, and the screenwriter and producer Richard Curtis have all been educated here. One such Scholar at the college was Charles Dodgson, better known as Lewis Carroll and he resided in the college for much of his life. It was here that he wrote the Alice in Wonderland Series, thought to be inspired by The Dean’s daughter Alice Liddell. Opposite the college you can find Alice’s Shop selling souvenirs, which in fact is the very same shop that Alice Liddell used to buy her sweets from! Many parts of Oxford were used in the Harry Potter films, at Christchurch you may recognise the staircase with its impressive fan-vaulted ceiling and Hogwarts’ famous dining room is based on those of the Oxford Colleges.

Set on the banks of the River Cherwell lies Magdalen College, its tranquil grounds are a welcome escape from the city centre. Wander round the cloisters which surround the quad, in spring you can find wisteria blooming and in summer it is ringed with blooming white hydrangeas. Next pass the red phone box on your right into the gardens, explore the columned passageway, pass over the stream and wander out into the rest of the grounds. If you are lucky you may come across the herd of deer who graze in Magdalen Grove, unfortunately they are protected behind a fence but you can admire them from afar. Once you finished exploring, head to the riverside cafe, place your order and sit outside below the trees, the perfect spot for a cup of tea while you watch the punters.

At the bottom of Walton Street lies Worcester College, check the board for visiting times and you are welcome to visit the quad. On your left you find reminders of a college that once stood on this spot. Gloucester College was where Benedictine Monks were educated from 1293 to 1539 and this day these are the oldest residential buildings in Oxford. Within its 26 acres of landscaped grounds you will fund seasonal gardens, snow drops in the winter and sunflowers in the summer, wander round the lake and discover the secret apple orchard.

Escape Oxford

Looking to explore outside the boundaries of the city walls? On the outskirts of Oxford is Harcot Aboretum, this tranquil escape is all the more wonderful in spring, when its wood is full of bluebells and their scent fills the air.

A short drive from Oxford is Blenheim Palace and the local market town of Woodstock. Birthplace of Winston Churchill and still home to the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, the Palace makes for a wonderful day out. Explore the magnificent house and enjoy your picnic in its expensive grounds. On the way back make sure you stop off in picturesque Woodstock to admire its beautiful sandstone streets and pretty boutiques.

Tips

Oxford makes a great day trip and is easily accessible by public transport. If travelling from London, you can catch train from London Paddington or Marylebone.

Or for a cheaper option, take the bus from London Victoria; the Oxford Tube or x90 will get there and each have stops along the way.

The centre city used to lack a variety of high street shops but this all changed with the recently opened Westgate Centre in the south of the city centre. When you have had a enough of exploring, it is the perfect place to wander the shops or grab a bite to eat.

The Bodleian Libraries is only accessible by guided tours which can be booked in advance, however the Divinity School can be viewed at any time for a small fee.

Looking for more inspiration? A few other instagram accounts include;

@conversationswithcharis for the latest coffee spots in Oxford and book recommendations

@micahcoston for a sneak peak into the colleges of Oxford

@byvanessaleigh for her city scenes of Oxford and the countryside beyond

Both now graduates of Oxford University and living in London @the.geographer and @musingsofemma - their earlier posts provide a snapshot of student life.

All rights reserved. Copyright Frances Hardie 2019